Shoulder season on the Annapurna Circuit

Late-August departures trade a little rain for empty teahouses and green valleys most photos never show.

Late August isn't peak season on the Annapurna Circuit for a reason — you'll get a wet afternoon most days below Manang. But the trade-off is teahouses with three tables free instead of thirty trekkers waiting for a room, and valleys still green before the autumn dust arrives. If your schedule only allows a shoulder-season window, this is the route to bring it to.

The pass is the whole question

Thorong La at 5,416m is colder and windier than most people plan for, and the window for crossing narrows to the hours before ten in the morning. We leave Phedi at four. If the forecast holds a front within a day of the crossing, we sit still rather than push — an extra night in Manang costs nothing next to a turned-back group.

November trekkers ask better questions. They have read about the pass, and they want to know what we do when the weather says no.

Thorong Phedi, 4,450m — the last village night before the pass, and the coldest.

If you have walked at altitude before and would rather have the trail than the certainty, late November is the best month on the circuit. If this is your first Himalayan trek, take the second half of October and enjoy the company.

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